June 20, 2005
Quiet on the Cape
We left Concord early Saturday morning for Cape Cod, giving ourselves an extra hour for traffic. We reached the circle and bridge at the entrance to the Cape by 10. We had perhaps a one-minute jam-up there, but otherwise it was easy going. Coming back early Sunday afternoon, the wait to get off the Cape was no more than 10 minutes.
We were happy to escape heavy traffic, but we wondered what was up. The weather wasn’t the best, but there was no rain forecast (and none fell). Some high schools were still in session or holding graduation, so the summer season wasn’t in full swing. But everywhere we went, people worried about the small crowds.
Everyone blamed the red tide. Local clams and oysters are inedible, and of course these are famous fare on the Cape.
We stayed with friends in Wellfleet. We could see a few people tending the oyster beds and mud flats arrayed beyond the beach, but the ban on eating mollusks kept them from their real work.
At 6:15 p.m. on Saturday, our host went out to the local seafood restaurant to pick up boiled lobsters for our supper. The restaurant employs several people full-time for the season. “I don’t know if they’re going to make it,” he said when he returned. He had been the only customer.
He and his wife told us people were wary of all seafood even though the red tide affects only mollusks. It is safe to swim, but some people are even afraid of that.
The Cape depends on tourism, so livelihoods are at stake. It is as though during early October in New Hampshire, the leaves all turned an ashy gray instead of orange, yellow and burnt red.
Maybe things will turn around for the Cape. Several people expressed hope that the red tide’s effects would dissipate by August and part of the season might be saved.
On the other hand, if you’ve long wanted to walk the national seashore or visit the sights on the Cape but have been scared off by the horrendous weekend traffic, this might be the summer to go. Just don’t expect clams or oysters.
Posted by Mike Pride at June 20, 2005 01:06 PM
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